A toast to the town

Cody named best small town in America for craft beers

Posted 3/19/24

With more than 10,000 craft breweries in America, Cody now stands out as the top small town craft beer scene in the nation, according to a recent USA Today poll. But it only gets better from here as …

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A toast to the town

Cody named best small town in America for craft beers

Posted

With more than 10,000 craft breweries in America, Cody now stands out as the top small town craft beer scene in the nation, according to a recent USA Today poll. But it only gets better from here as the brews get better, owners continue investing in facilities and aficionados from across the nation are finding out that Park County, Wyoming isn’t just a gateway to Yellowstone, but a tasty western suds haven all on its own.

The publication set out to find the best of the beer scene by asking beer experts to nominate their top picks across each of 10 categories. Then readers voted for their favorites and Cody came out on top. With beers like Outlaw Justice Pale Ale, What’s My Name Again Dry Imperial Oreo Stout, New Wonderland Wheat and Jellystone Sour, Cody’s breweries are building a fine reputation for creative takes on regional suds, many made with local ingredients.

It’s all due to fairly recent changes in Cody’s craft beer scene. Cody Craft Brewing, the most recent addition, opened a little more than two years ago to almost immediate success.

Brian Walker, co-owner of the brewery with his wife Jen, said Cody is “punching above our weight class.”

“People have a preconceived notion about beers in Wyoming. There are the two or three big ones in the state that everybody knows, but I think this honor will really help them realize that there’s a lot of great beer in Cody and other small breweries in the state,” he said.

Pat O’Hara Brewing Company is the oldest brewery still open in Cody having first started in 2013, but it was purchased in 2021 by former employee Norfleet Gifford and Ariel Fishman. Gifford dreamed of increasing the quality and number of offerings at the brewery while working as a server. She made her dreams come true with the purchase and then the co-owners hired Alexandria Cain as the brewer. Cain immediately made big changes on the taps. There are now nine house brews on tap, all of which are Cain’s personal recipes. Her top selling beers are Pat’s Blue Ribbon Blonde Ale and Juni Ripper IPA, made with juniper berries.

Pat’s Brew House is Wyoming’s first all-women owned and operated brewery.

While WYOld West opened its brewery in Powell in 2016, the Taproom in Cody first opened just off of Sheridan Avenue in 2019 with a “pour your own” theme combined with their full menu. They are also the first brewery in the area to distribute their brews, now canning four different beers that have become popular across the state and regionally.

The secret to their success has been the brewing of Steve Samuelson, who is a co-owner and has been with the company for five years. Samuelson has been in the business for decades, moving to Powell from Seattle for the job.

“They brought me in to improve recipes and make beer to can,” he said in a recent interview. “I love it here. The pace is better — really good for me and my wife.”

Millstone Pizza Co. and Brewery first opened a decade ago in Cody, then opened a second location in Powell in 2018. But they weren’t brewing many beers until they brought in top brewer Zachary Flynn to improve the offerings at the family-friendly restaurant.

Millstone General Manager Lindsay Thompson said they continue to see visitors coming in to try their house brews and the notoriety received from the top designation will help put a spotlight on the small town brewers.

“This sheds a light on the great beers that can be made in a small town. Everyone  wants to try them and take them home,” she said.

Of the eight house brews offered, several are new to the beer menu. Harp said the growlers full of favorite brews for take out move fast, especially during the summer when the town is flooded with tourists.

Interestingly, the four competitors aren’t fighting each other for customers. There are plenty of folks filling all four establishments, allowing each to continue to invest in local ingredients. Instead, the brewers and owners have come together “in friendly competition” said Samuelson.

“All four of us are unique brewers. We all deal with different philosophies,” he said.

He explained while there might be some crossover — each brewery might have an IPA, lager or pilsner — the individual brewers have made each brew special through personal touches in the recipes.

“We’re competitive, but at the same time we support each other and it’s a really nice relationship,” Samuelson said.

Gifford said collaborating with other owners and brewers has made the entire scene stronger, whether it is collaborating on a special brew or sharing ideas. Sometimes they even share ingredients when one of the breweries finds themselves in a pinch.

“We’re all very different but it’s wonderful to have those close relationships,” Gifford said.

The top designation will motivate Cody brewers to reach for higher plateaus in creativity, Samuelson said.

“Everybody will step up. To win this honor you have to make good beer for the people who are going to come in and ask what we did to win this award,” he said.

But Walker said, while they are happy for the good news, the notoriety wasn’t their inspiration to reach for the top. It’s their main philosophy to make the best beer possible.

“I think our game is pretty damn good. That’s why we won this,” he said. “We focus on quality 100% of the time.”

This isn’t the first accolade for Walker. The brewery’s Much Obliged Hazy IPA was named the best in its class in Wyoming last year and their wheat brew brought home second place.

“Our sole focus really is just making quality beer,” Walker said.

Nick Lawson, head brewer at Cody Craft Brewing, was brought in a little more than two years ago — before the restaurant was open — and allowed to design and build his own brewery. He said the owners willingness to allow him to brew his own creations has made it a dream job.

“I get 100% creativity. It’s awesome to have the ability to brew whatever I want,” he said while enforcing that the entire staff and owners are a team. “Wyoming is probably not the first state you think of for the greatest beers. But we’ve got some awesome brewers here.”

Park County Travel Council Executive Director Ryan Hauck said they have led the effort to lobby for Cody since first being contacted by USA Today that they were nominated for the award. Hauck had previously introduced several “high level” national media members to Cody’s nightlife through the Council’s Sippin’ Trail campaign; a journey through our region’s vibrant bar and restaurant scene with the Sippin’ Trail Drink Pass.

The free pass offers the opportunity to visit numerous locally famous locations “boasting exceptional libations including brews,” according to the council, while winning fun prizes.

Hauck said each of the breweries bring something different to the table.

“All four breweries bring a different kind of flavor and feel to this destination,” he said. “It gives us bragging rights for the next full year.”

The four craft breweries are designing a special pint glass for customers willing to try each brewery in celebration of the USA Today designation.

This year should be a great opportunity to celebrate Cody brews when the Yellowstone Beer Festival is moved downtown to City Park on July 20. The festival draws in brewers from all over the U.S. and is attended by the region’s biggest craft beer fans, as well as visiting tourists to the city.

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